Hair colorimetry: learn how to choose the best color for you
You know that blonde hair of your friend that you want to copy? Perhaps this shade is not the most suitable for you. The answer to know the color that best matches our physical characteristics is in colorimetry. To get more tips, please click here.
Colorimetry is a technique that is based on some factors - such as natural hair color, skin tone and eye color - to identify the ideal color for your hair.
It is also used in the work of designers and artists. With them and the cosmetic industry, capillary colorimetry was born and developed, which studies color combinations focusing on hair.
What is colorimetry?
It looks complicated, but, translating, it's a way of measuring color. There are other terms to define colorimetry: luminosity, hue and saturation. Science is applied in several areas, and it is applied for photo treatment, makeup, clothing or hair.
The natural hair color, seen by our eyes, is formed by the pigments contained in the capillary cortex, known as melanin.
Hair tone is characterized by only two types of melanin , called eumelanins and phaeomelanins. Eumelanins are dark brown and black pigments, while pheomelanins are red and blond pigments. Hair colors are different precisely because of the combination of these two types of structures.
The primary colors (blue, yellow and red) gave rise to the laws of colorimetry and the complementary colors are the mixture of two primary colors in equal proportions (green, orange, violet). Together, these 6 colors form black.
“The brown color, for example, is made up of two parts of yellow, two of red and one of blue”, explains Nataly Munhoz, hairstylist at Sputnika Hair.
Colorimetry is a technique that is based on some factors - such as natural hair color, skin tone and eye color - to identify the ideal color for your hair.
It is also used in the work of designers and artists. With them and the cosmetic industry, capillary colorimetry was born and developed, which studies color combinations focusing on hair.
What is colorimetry?
It looks complicated, but, translating, it's a way of measuring color. There are other terms to define colorimetry: luminosity, hue and saturation. Science is applied in several areas, and it is applied for photo treatment, makeup, clothing or hair.
The natural hair color, seen by our eyes, is formed by the pigments contained in the capillary cortex, known as melanin.
Hair tone is characterized by only two types of melanin , called eumelanins and phaeomelanins. Eumelanins are dark brown and black pigments, while pheomelanins are red and blond pigments. Hair colors are different precisely because of the combination of these two types of structures.
The primary colors (blue, yellow and red) gave rise to the laws of colorimetry and the complementary colors are the mixture of two primary colors in equal proportions (green, orange, violet). Together, these 6 colors form black.
“The brown color, for example, is made up of two parts of yellow, two of red and one of blue”, explains Nataly Munhoz, hairstylist at Sputnika Hair.
How to find the right shade in discoloration
The lightening background is what will give the answer to the tone that the person desires. The discoloration happens exactly in a gradual sequence: red, orange red, orange, yellow orange, yellow, light yellow and very light yellow.
From there, it is necessary to analyze which lightening background the person has and which neutralizer should be used to achieve the chosen color.
“After discoloration, we can neutralize this lightening background: when revealing orange, we use blue; for red, we use green; for yellowish tones, we use purple and vice versa ”, says Nataly.
In addition to the color of your own hair and the formula of the ink, the professional will think about the desired base color and the reflection too. After all, black hair with bluish or coppery highlights makes a big difference, right? And capillary colorimetry is able to predict the result of applying a certain dye to the hair and, even, what is the best bet for certain skin tones.
Colorimetry and eye color
There are some extra techniques in colorimetry that allow the professional to evaluate the best color for each person and one of them is to combine the tone of the dye with the color of the eyes.
But remember that these are rules created just to harmonize hair and eyes, so don't stick to specific characteristics.
Colorimetry also takes into account other factors, such as skin tone, natural hair color and hair health. The goal is to highlight its natural beauty.
The lightening background is what will give the answer to the tone that the person desires. The discoloration happens exactly in a gradual sequence: red, orange red, orange, yellow orange, yellow, light yellow and very light yellow.
From there, it is necessary to analyze which lightening background the person has and which neutralizer should be used to achieve the chosen color.
“After discoloration, we can neutralize this lightening background: when revealing orange, we use blue; for red, we use green; for yellowish tones, we use purple and vice versa ”, says Nataly.
In addition to the color of your own hair and the formula of the ink, the professional will think about the desired base color and the reflection too. After all, black hair with bluish or coppery highlights makes a big difference, right? And capillary colorimetry is able to predict the result of applying a certain dye to the hair and, even, what is the best bet for certain skin tones.
Colorimetry and eye color
There are some extra techniques in colorimetry that allow the professional to evaluate the best color for each person and one of them is to combine the tone of the dye with the color of the eyes.
- Dark brown and light blue eyes combine with blonde or even lighter strands, as these cool tones converse with each other and harmonize the look;
- Women with green or light brown eyes - greenish or honey - can opt for shades of golden blond, medium brown, reddish brown, dark brown and light red;
- For those who have dark brown or black eyes, professionals indicate shades of dark red, medium brown and light brown.
But remember that these are rules created just to harmonize hair and eyes, so don't stick to specific characteristics.
Colorimetry also takes into account other factors, such as skin tone, natural hair color and hair health. The goal is to highlight its natural beauty.